Halogen to LED Conversion Chart (20W to 500W)

Q: What Kelvin matches a halogen light bulb?

Choose 3000K (Warm/Bright White) with CRI 90+. Quartz halogen bulbs operate at 2900K to 3000K, slightly whiter and crisper than 2700K incandescent bulbs.

Q: Why do my new MR16 LED bulbs flicker or shut off after a few seconds?

Your fixture uses a 12V electronic halogen transformer with a minimum wattage threshold (typically 20W to 35W). Replacing the transformer with a zero-minimum-load 12V LED driver stops the drop-outs.

By LEDaBulb Editorial Team • Updated November 12, 2026

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Selection Methodology: Picks come from verified manufacturer data sheets, certification databases (DesignLights Consortium QPL for commercial fixtures, California Title 24 JA8, FTC Lighting Facts, and EPA ENERGY STAR for recessed downlights), and owner failure-rate analysis. We do not run hands-on lab tests.

A halogen bulb uses 5 to 7 times more electricity than an LED of equal brightness and runs above 500°F. Match your replacement by lumen output, system voltage (12V vs. 120V), and pin or screw base.

Quick Answer: Replace a 50W halogen track or recessed bulb (675 lumens) with a 7–9W LED in the same base (120V GU10 or 12V MR16 GU5.3). Replace a 75W–100W PAR30/PAR38 flood with a 10–16W LED flood. For 300W or 500W R7s J-type linear halogen tubes in torchieres or work lights, replace the entire fixture with an integrated LED floor lamp or floodlight instead of using a retrofit R7s cob bulb.

Halogen to LED Wattage & Lumen Chart

Halogen bulbs produce roughly 12 to 20 lumens per watt, slightly higher than standard incandescents. Use the lumen column below to select an LED with matching directional light output, and check annual electricity savings at $0.18/kWh (3 hours per day).

Halogen Bulb	LED Watts	Lumens	Savings / Yr	Guide
10W G4 bi-pin (12V)	1–1.5W	100 lm	$1.74	Calculate
20W MR16 GU5.3 / G4 (12V)	3W	230 lm	$3.35	View 20W
35W MR16 GU5.3 / GU10	5–6W	450 lm	$5.81	View 35W
50W GU10 / MR16 / PAR20	7–9W	675 lm	$8.28	View 50W
65W BR30 / PAR30 flood	9–11W	850 lm	$10.84	Calculate
75W PAR30 / PAR38 E26	10–12W	1,050 lm	$12.61	View 75W
90W PAR38 E26 flood	12–15W	1,300 lm	$15.08	Calculate
100W PAR38 E26 / T4 G9	13–16W	1,500 lm	$16.85	View 100W
150W PAR38 / J-type 78mm	20–25W	2,400 lm	$25.13	View 150W
300W R7s 118mm torchiere	35–45W (fixture)	4,750 lm	$51.25	View 300W
500W R7s 118mm work flood	60–80W (fixture)	8,750 lm	$84.75	View 500W

Annual savings calculated at 3 hours/day, 365 days/year, $0.18/kWh US residential average.

Halogen to LED conversion chart from 10W to 500W covering 12V MR16 GU5.3, 120V GU10, PAR30/PAR38 floods, and R7s work lights — Printable halogen-to-LED wattage, lumen, and 12V vs. 120V base reference chart (20W to 500W). Open full size Download PNG

Check Voltage & Base Before Buying (12V vs. 120V)

Halogen track, landscape, and recessed bulbs look almost identical from the front, yet use incompatible voltages and pin bases. Pull one old halogen bulb and read the stamp on its neck before ordering LEDs.

Base Code	Pin / Screw Shape	Voltage	LED Upgrade Rule
GU10	2 thick twist-lock pegs (10mm apart)	120V AC	Direct swap. No low-voltage transformer in the ceiling. See GU10 spotlight picks.
MR16 (GU5.3)	2 thin straight push-pins (5.3mm apart)	12V AC/DC	Runs on a hidden 12V transformer. Old magnetic or electronic halogen transformers often require a 20W minimum load; if LEDs flicker or refuse to start, install an LED-rated 12V driver.
G4 / GY6.35	2 tiny wire pins (4mm or 6.35mm apart)	12V AC/DC	Measure physical capsule length carefully. Many under-cabinet puck housings require flat disc-style G4 LED wafers so the glass lens still closes.
G9	2 looped wire pins (9mm apart)	120V AC	Used in decorative sconces and chandeliers. Choose silicone-encapsulated or ceramic G9 LEDs rated for enclosed glass shades, and verify physical diameter.
E26 (PAR20 / PAR30 / PAR38)	Standard 26mm household screw base	120V AC	Direct screw-in replacement. Match the PAR number (PAR20 = 2.5 in, PAR30 = 3.75 in, PAR38 = 4.75 in) and choose UL Wet Rated for exposed outdoor eaves.
R7s (J-Type 78mm / 118mm)	Double-ended linear quartz tube	120V AC	Avoid thick R7s retrofit LED cylinders: most will not fit past the reflector clip and overheat inside narrow halogen housings. Replace the whole floodlight or torchiere with an integrated LED fixture.

Lumie's Rule: Halogen bulbs naturally warm from 3000K down to a golden 2200K as you dim them. Standard LEDs stay at a fixed 3000K when dimmed, which can look gray at 10% brightness. For living rooms, dining rooms, and track heads on dimmers, pick Philips Warm Glow GU10 or PAR bulbs so the color warms as you dim.

Why 300W and 500W R7s Halogen Fixtures Should Be Replaced Whole

Linear 300W and 500W R7s quartz halogen tubes produce 4,750 to 8,750 lumens from a pencil-thin glass tube less than half an inch wide. An LED needs aluminum heat sinks and driver circuitry that cannot fit inside that tiny R7s footprint.

Retrofit R7s bulbs under-deliver: Most plug-in R7s LED tubes max out at 1,000 to 1,800 lumens (roughly a 75W–100W halogen) and fail early from trapped heat inside sealed floodlight glass.
Outdoor 300W–500W work/security floods: Replace the entire halogen head with a hardwired IP65 LED security floodlight (3,000–7,000 lumens). See our Outdoor LED Floodlight Guide.
Indoor 300W halogen torchiere floor lamps: Replace the lamp with an integrated LED torchiere or high-CRI reading floor lamp. You eliminate a serious 900°F curtain fire hazard and save over $50 per year. See our Reading & Floor Lamps Guide.

Halogen vs. LED: Dimming, Color & Heat

Color temperature match: Standard halogen capsules run at 2900K–3000K, slightly crisper and whiter than 2700K incandescent bulbs. Choose 3000K CRI 90+ LEDs to preserve the crisp halogen look on countertops, tile, and artwork.
Dimmer switch compatibility: Older rotary and slide dimmers built for 150W–600W halogen loads often drop below their minimum wattage threshold when you swap six 50W halogens (300W) for six 7W LEDs (42W). Upgrading the wall switch to a Lutron Diva LED+ or ELV dimmer stops low-end shimmer and buzzing.
Appliance & oven warning: Never put an LED bulb inside a kitchen oven, microwave cavity, or high-heat warming lamp. LED drivers fail above 185°F (85°C); keep a high-temp rated halogen or appliance incandescent for inside-oven sockets.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I put an LED bulb directly into a halogen socket?

Yes, for 120V sockets such as E26 screw bases, GU10 twist-lock bases, and G9 bi-pin sockets, provided the bulb physically fits the shade. For 12V sockets (MR16 GU5.3 and G4), the socket matches, but you may need an LED-compatible 12V driver if your old halogen transformer flickers under the lower wattage load.

What Kelvin matches a halogen light bulb?

Choose 3000K (Warm/Bright White) with CRI 90+. Standard household incandescents sit near 2700K, while quartz halogen bulbs burn hotter and cleaner at 2900K to 3000K with CRI 100.

Why do my new MR16 LED bulbs flicker or shut off after a few seconds?

Your ceiling or track fixture contains a 12V electronic halogen transformer with a minimum load requirement (commonly 20W to 35W). Three 5W MR16 LEDs draw only 15W total, causing the transformer to drop out. Swapping the transformer for a zero-minimum-load 12V LED driver solves the problem permanently.

References & Verification Standards: